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Sushi - Vibrant & Refreshing

Story by AIMEE MCCLINTON Photography by PHIL WISE

Fresh, vibrant, bright and refreshing. These adjectives encapsulate the description of springtime. They also offer a depiction of food theme this quarter, sushi. It’s believed that sushi has been around since the third and fourth century B.C., though it took on a much different form than we know it today. The infiltration of sushi in America has been steadily gaining popularity for thirty years, and with good reason; sushi is, for the most part, a healthful meal that’s flavorful and satisfying. Despite our physical proximity to the ocean, the convenience of overnight shipping have afforded Central Oregon restaurateurs the luxury of accessing fresh, sushi grade fish.

Sushi comes in a number of different forms (see glossary), the most recognizable being the roll form. Listed below are a few great spots to fulfill your sushi craving this spring, and year round. Shoji’s 62929 N. Hwy 97, Bend 541/389-0701 www.makeitshojis.com To many, Shoji’s is the place to enjoy dinner and a show. Cooks prepare meals on an iron griddle directly in front of guests, showcasing a Japanese style of cooking called Teppanyaki. The demonstration is whimsical and the food satisfying, particularly the longstanding favorite, teriyaki chicken. Shoji’s also offers a respectable selection of nigiri, sashimi, hand rolls and maki sushi. Chef, Charlie Eaton, states their maki sushi are among the most requested, specifically the California roll, the shrimp tempura roll and spicy tuna roll. Eaton’s favorite maki selection is his namesake, the Charlie Roll, a spicy shrimp tempura roll with smoked salmon and avocado on top.

The Tiger Tail roll contains two types of smoked salmon; lox, a thinly sliced, cured salmon, and salmon that have been smoked in the traditional sense. Sections of shrimp and avocado are then finely cut and curled around the roll. It’s a treat so rich and decadent on its own that condiments, like soy sauce and wasabi, seem superfluous. Shoji’s sushi bar is tucked away from the main dining room, offering a more intimate setting. deep 821 NW Wall St., Bend 541/323-9841 www.deepbend.com

Coming up on its one year anniversary, Deep continues to dazzle the senses for those who cross its threshold. The ambiance is fresh, open and contemporary with a stunning 38 foot long steel and plexiglass water holding trough suspended from the ceiling. Cable lights are strategically directed above and below the two inches of slow moving water, projecting a water reflection around the bar and parts of the dining room. Menu choices are equally striking.

The sushi menu is an array of inspired ingredient pairings. Fish, and other seafood, from all corners of the globe are brought into the restaurant daily, ensuring top quality and freshness. Chef de Cuisine, Cliff Eslinger, states that Deep strives to source fish in a responsible manner; meaning no farm raised fish and no purchase of items that are endangered or currently being over-fished. One of the top maki sushi selections, the Red Dragon, is prepared with spicy tuna and avocado, wrapped in big eye tuna with wakame (seaweed), and garlic ponzu. The bright flavor of the tuna balances nicely against the gentle, spicy heat and the creaminess of the avocado. Other popular menu choices include Northwest Kobe beef served with a steaming hot river rock for cooking, lacquered pork short ribs, and a list of delicious tempura. Sumi’s 1444 NW College Way, Ste. 1, Bend 541/385-9191 www.sumisrestaurant.com

Reputed for having the best bento and yakisoba in town, customers were at a loss when the popular Kushinbo Kitchen, located in downtown Bend, closed its doors in 2007. A collective sigh of relief could be heard throughout the county when Kushinbo owner, Sumi Douglass, opened her new, much larger restaurant. The same delicious items offered at the former location are available, along with many more alluring choices, including an expanded sushi menu. A plentiful assortment of nigiri, hand rolls and maki decorate the menu, which is updated seasonally. The Create Your Own sushi roll, however, is most intriguing.

Diners are supplied with a list from which to build their ideal roll. “People love this option,” Douglass states. “They get excited to share ‘their roll’ with their friends…and the customers get very creative with their choices.” Main ingredient selections offer familiar items like tuna and crab; also included are more exotic nibbles such as eel and spicy octopus. The sub ingredient list is a healthful blend of veggies, herbs, and fruits. One of seven authentic house recipe sauces can be selected, as well as one choice of topping including sesame seeds, tempura crumbs or tobiko (flying fish roe). Submit the list and before long your original edible masterpiece is served.

Yoko’s 2670 NE Hwy 20 Ste. 720, Bend 541/382-3300 Sushi lovers will always have a soft spot for Yoko’s, being that it was introduced as Bend’s first sushi bar nearly nineteen years ago. Chef, Phelan Curry, has been rolling and cooking with Yoko’s for fifteen of those years. Yoko’s prides itself on being a casual environment where the whole family can dine. The décor is bright and inviting, with a large sushi bar, centrally situated and outfitted with a conveyor continuously bringing around varieties of maki to diners seated bar side (bar seating is plentiful). Curry states top selling maki sushi includes the Yoko Special, made with tempura shrimp and broccoli; the Tsunami Roll, made with spicy tuna, shrimp, tobiko, green onion, cilantro and ponzu; and the Mango Fandango, which is filled with smoked salmon, mango cream cheese and avocado. Specials are offered daily which Curry strives to keep fresh and new for customers.

For the featured roll, Curry’s compiled a roll of cucumber, avocado, broccoli, lettuce and carrots, with seared albacore tuna tobiko and ginger. “I like this combination because it’s light yet isn’t lacking in flavor.” Kanpai 990 NW Newport Ave., Bend 388-4636 www.kanpai-bend.com Chef Brian Stanbro stands comfortably behind the sushi bar, rolling up any variety of fresh ingredients destined to be enjoyed by eager palates. He’s been with Kanpai for two years, enjoys working with sushi, and often finds himself creating unique, off-the-menu, items such as duck confit wrapped in tamago (Japanese style omelet), and unagi (fresh water eel) topped with a dab of toasted goat cheese. Menu offerings are equally creative, flavorful, and artfully presented.

Among Kanpai’s most popular rolls is the featured Yakuza. Within the roll’s center is tuna, tempura jalapenos and cucumber. The roll is topped with seared beef filet, garlic ponzu (citrus based sauce), pickled red onion and wasabi pepper sauce. The combination is light, yet bold; refreshing, but with a kick of spicy heat. Stanbro affectionately refers to the Yakuza as the surf & turf roll. Kanpai’s atmosphere is tastefully relaxed. The sushi bar is viewable from every dining room seat, though the best place to watch the action is at the bar (also where you’re most likely to sample Stanbro’s original creations). In addition, the menu boasts a wide selection of tempura, and entrées such as seared filet of beef, and seafood udon (noodle soup).

Making Your Own Sushi Making your own sushi at home means you’ll need a bamboo rolling mat (found at most grocery stores), a sharp knife, some patience (it takes a couple tries to get it right), a group of friends (because hand’s on food activities are always better with friends), and some tips from the experts. Brian Stanbro (Kanpai): Don’t be afraid to experiment with flavors you like.

Charlie Eaton (Shoji’s): Be careful not to overfill your roll with ingredients, otherwise it will fall apart. Sumi Douglass (Sumi’s): The rice is an important. You want to have a good rice cooker, the right kind of rice (short grain white rice), and the rice must be well seasoned* to bring out the flavor of the fish. Phelan Curry (Yoko’s) & Cliff Eslinger (Deep): Always use the freshest ingredients you can find, especially when it comes to fish. *Sushi rice is typically seasoned with equal parts salt, sugar and rice vinegar. Depending on how much rice you make, you’ll want to add each ingredient to a batch of cooked rice one tablespoon at a time, tasting along the way, until it’s seasoned to your liking. Sushi Glossary Nigiri: Fish, or other items, placed on top of pads of rice. Maki: Rolled sushi. Inari: Small pouch made of fried tofu and stuffed with any type of ingredient. Sashimi: Selection of raw fish served along side a bowl of rice. Temaki, or hand roll: Fish and/or vegetable that wrapped with rice in a sheet of toasted seaweed.