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Chutes & Ladders
Climbing
Up & Riding Down Central Oregon's Cascade Volcanoes
Story
by DAVE MCRAE
Between the verdant rainforests of the coast and the
high desert of Eastern Oregon, the Cascade volcanoes stand out like
frosted gems on the skyline. Any skier or snowboarder who
lays eyes on them longs to experience their wealth of snowfall and
grandiose lines. These solitary peaks provide hair-raising challenges
for expert sliders, as well as long, open, moderate slopes for average
Joes. Forming a storm barrier between the coastal climate and the
desert, the Cascades get hammered with prolific amounts of snowfall,
around 600 inches in an average season.
The major lines stay snow-covered well into July. Big mountains
make big vertical relief, 4,000 to 7,500 feet for the rides described
here. A typical day begins early in the morning on a forested hill,
before reaching an apex, high on a steep, treeless mountainside
or summit. Many objective hazards exist on the high slopes of the
Cascades. Huge crevasses lurk under seasonal snow on glaciated slopes.
The thundering sounds of falling rock and ice rip through the afternoon
silence on warm spring days. Snow consistency can change from soft
powder to bulletproof crud on the same slope. But for the hearty
adventurer lucky enough to ride from a Cascade summit on a bluebird
day, no resort experience on the planet even comes close!
This article describes three selected rides on Oregon’s Cascade
volcanoes: Mt. Hood’s Cooper Spur Route, South Sister’s South Route
and Mt. Thielsen’s Regular Route.
Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur
Not to be confused with the humble ski resort located at the base
of the spur, the Cooper Spur Route forms a narrow spine of 50 degree
double fall lines with serious exposure. A fall in the wrong place
has been fatal for many. Only serious players should attempt to
ride this line.
For those up to the task, Cooper Spur makes the ride of a lifetime.
If attempting before late June, the approach starts just past the
Cooper Spur Ski Resort at a gate closing the road to Cloud Cap Inn
(Road 3512). From this gate, a well-used ski trail leads to the
shelter at Tilly Jane Campground. After late June (in most years),
keep driving on this road for ten bumpy miles to Cloud Cap Inn or
Tilly Jane Campground. Follow Timberline trail (600 or 600A respectively)
uphill for one mile to an obvious moraine on the east side of Elliot
Glacier. Head straight up the moraine on a climbers’ trail to a
9,000-foot saddle with a boulder known as Tie-In-Rock.
The intimidating final 2,200-foot soars directly above. The angle
nears 50 degrees for a 1,000-feet section on the upper route. Although
a continuous line of snow isn’t visible from any one spot, the route
unfolds through an unlikely series of chutes and spines. Once atop
the summit, just strap in right from the top, follow your tracks
down, and don’t let your guard down until you pass through the final
chute. Note: Due to difficult route finding and variable snow conditions,
it is not recommended to ride down Cooper Spur without climbing
up this route first.
South Sister, South Route
The largest of the Three Sisters, South Sister sits directly above
the scenic Cascade Lakes Highway, six miles west of Mt. Bachelor
ski resort. Beginning at Devil’s Lake (5,444 feet), the five-mile-long
South Sister climbers’ trail winds through the woods between Kaleetan
Butte and Devil’s Hill to a plateau above moraine lake at 6,800
feet. After cruising across the flats for a half mile, the route
steepens and angles west toward a broad ridge dividing Lewis Glacier
from Clark Glacier. Seasonal snowfall can hide a deep crevasse near
the top of Lewis Glacier, so stay on the ridge rather than short
cutting across the top of Lewis Glacier. Above lies the quarter-mile-wide
crater.
A small hill on the north side forms the 10,358-foot summit and
provides fine views of Mt. Jefferson, Middle and North Sisters and
Mt. Bachelor. The angle of the crater stays just steep enough to
facilitate strapping in right from the top. Below the crater, the
30-35 degree slope sports some of the best wide-open, full speed
terrain in the state of Oregon. After blasting down the initial
pitch, remember to veer the skier’s left and hook up with the trail
near Moraine Lake. Heading a few degrees off course near the top
can equal many miles of slogging out at the bottom. After crossing
the plateau, the trail through the trees stays steep enough to keep
momentum all the way back to the trailhead.
Mt. Thielsen, Regular Route
Known as the Lightning Rod of the Cascades, Mt. Thielsen soars directly
above Diamond Lake, near Crater Lake National Park. Some climbers
may want a rope for the exposed, unridable, 80-foot scramble to
the summit. Whether heading to the top or not, the killer terrain
surrounding the west ridge is good enough to make you feel sorry
for those “lazy suckers” riding the snowcat across the valley at
Mt. Bailey. Mt. Thielsen makes a great choice for winter and spring
tours. A parking area labeled Mt. Thielsen Trailhead is located
just off Hwy. 138, north of an intersection with Hwy. 230 and stays
plowed all year long.
When snowed over, blue diamonds on trees mark the well- used cross-country
ski trail. If you lose the blue diamonds, simply head uphill until
the west ridge comes into view. Follow the west ridge to the summit
pinnacle. Scramble up 80 feet of solid, exposed rock to the top,
or pass on the rock climbing and strap in at the “chicken coop”
and begin the ride down. Near the bottom of the ridge, stay to the
skier’s left and try to follow your tracks back out. If you lose
your tracks, like I always seem to, just head down the fall line
toward Diamond Lake until you hit the road.
Then ask yourself, “Which way to the car?” Season Good snowpack
usually exists from mid-November through mid-July. Approaches become
shorter and the weather more predictable around early May. Call
Oregon highway information 800/977-6368 for the status on road closures.
Guidebooks
Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot
Oregon High by Jeff Thomas
Special Considerations
The unique environment of the Cascade volcanoes creates specific
objective hazards differing from most backcountry areas. Rime ice
and frost wedging cause frequent ice and rock fall on Cooper Spur
and make helmets recommended. Starting before the sun comes up can
minimize but not eliminate exposure to rock and ice fall. An ice
axe and crampons are mandatory on most routes.
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