Chutes & Ladders
Climbing Up & Riding Down Central Oregon's Cascade Volcanoes

Story by DAVE MCRAE

   Between the verdant rainforests of the coast and the high desert of Eastern Oregon, the Cascade volcanoes stand out like frosted gems on the skyline.  Any skier or snowboarder who lays eyes on them longs to experience their wealth of snowfall and grandiose lines. These solitary peaks provide hair-raising challenges for expert sliders, as well as long, open, moderate slopes for average Joes. Forming a storm barrier between the coastal climate and the desert, the Cascades get hammered with prolific amounts of snowfall, around 600 inches in an average season.

The major lines stay snow-covered well into July. Big mountains make big vertical relief, 4,000 to 7,500 feet for the rides described here. A typical day begins early in the morning on a forested hill, before reaching an apex, high on a steep, treeless mountainside or summit. Many objective hazards exist on the high slopes of the Cascades. Huge crevasses lurk under seasonal snow on glaciated slopes. The thundering sounds of falling rock and ice rip through the afternoon silence on warm spring days. Snow consistency can change from soft powder to bulletproof crud on the same slope. But for the hearty adventurer lucky enough to ride from a Cascade summit on a bluebird day, no resort experience on the planet even comes close!

This article describes three selected rides on Oregon’s Cascade volcanoes: Mt. Hood’s Cooper Spur Route, South Sister’s South Route and Mt. Thielsen’s Regular Route.

Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur

Not to be confused with the humble ski resort located at the base of the spur, the Cooper Spur Route forms a narrow spine of 50 degree double fall lines with serious exposure. A fall in the wrong place has been fatal for many. Only serious players should attempt to ride this line.

For those up to the task, Cooper Spur makes the ride of a lifetime. If attempting before late June, the approach starts just past the Cooper Spur Ski Resort at a gate closing the road to Cloud Cap Inn (Road 3512). From this gate, a well-used ski trail leads to the shelter at Tilly Jane Campground. After late June (in most years), keep driving on this road for ten bumpy miles to Cloud Cap Inn or Tilly Jane Campground. Follow Timberline trail (600 or 600A respectively) uphill for one mile to an obvious moraine on the east side of Elliot Glacier. Head straight up the moraine on a climbers’ trail to a 9,000-foot saddle with a boulder known as Tie-In-Rock.

The intimidating final 2,200-foot soars directly above. The angle nears 50 degrees for a 1,000-feet section on the upper route. Although a continuous line of snow isn’t visible from any one spot, the route unfolds through an unlikely series of chutes and spines. Once atop the summit, just strap in right from the top, follow your tracks down, and don’t let your guard down until you pass through the final chute. Note: Due to difficult route finding and variable snow conditions, it is not recommended to ride down Cooper Spur without climbing up this route first.

South Sister, South Route

The largest of the Three Sisters, South Sister sits directly above the scenic Cascade Lakes Highway, six miles west of Mt. Bachelor ski resort. Beginning at Devil’s Lake (5,444 feet), the five-mile-long South Sister climbers’ trail winds through the woods between Kaleetan Butte and Devil’s Hill to a plateau above moraine lake at 6,800 feet. After cruising across the flats for a half mile, the route steepens and angles west toward a broad ridge dividing Lewis Glacier from Clark Glacier. Seasonal snowfall can hide a deep crevasse near the top of Lewis Glacier, so stay on the ridge rather than short cutting across the top of Lewis Glacier. Above lies the quarter-mile-wide crater.

A small hill on the north side forms the 10,358-foot summit and provides fine views of Mt. Jefferson, Middle and North Sisters and Mt. Bachelor. The angle of the crater stays just steep enough to facilitate strapping in right from the top. Below the crater, the 30-35 degree slope sports some of the best wide-open, full speed terrain in the state of Oregon. After blasting down the initial pitch, remember to veer the skier’s left and hook up with the trail near Moraine Lake. Heading a few degrees off course near the top can equal many miles of slogging out at the bottom. After crossing the plateau, the trail through the trees stays steep enough to keep momentum all the way back to the trailhead.

Mt. Thielsen, Regular Route

Known as the Lightning Rod of the Cascades, Mt. Thielsen soars directly above Diamond Lake, near Crater Lake National Park. Some climbers may want a rope for the exposed, unridable, 80-foot scramble to the summit. Whether heading to the top or not, the killer terrain surrounding the west ridge is good enough to make you feel sorry for those “lazy suckers” riding the snowcat across the valley at Mt. Bailey. Mt. Thielsen makes a great choice for winter and spring tours. A parking area labeled Mt. Thielsen Trailhead is located just off Hwy. 138, north of an intersection with Hwy. 230 and stays plowed all year long.

When snowed over, blue diamonds on trees mark the well- used cross-country ski trail. If you lose the blue diamonds, simply head uphill until the west ridge comes into view. Follow the west ridge to the summit pinnacle. Scramble up 80 feet of solid, exposed rock to the top, or pass on the rock climbing and strap in at the “chicken coop” and begin the ride down. Near the bottom of the ridge, stay to the skier’s left and try to follow your tracks back out. If you lose your tracks, like I always seem to, just head down the fall line toward Diamond Lake until you hit the road.

Then ask yourself, “Which way to the car?” Season Good snowpack usually exists from mid-November through mid-July. Approaches become shorter and the weather more predictable around early May. Call Oregon highway information 800/977-6368 for the status on road closures.

Guidebooks

Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes by Jeff Smoot
Oregon High by Jeff Thomas  

Special Considerations


The unique environment of the Cascade volcanoes creates specific objective hazards differing from most backcountry areas. Rime ice and frost wedging cause frequent ice and rock fall on Cooper Spur and make helmets recommended. Starting before the sun comes up can minimize but not eliminate exposure to rock and ice fall. An ice axe and crampons are mandatory on most routes.

 

 

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Climbing Central Oregon's Volcanoes

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