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It's Not Brain Surgery:
Climbing Mt. Hood
Editor’s Note: In real life, this
story’s author is a neurosurgeon at The Center in Bend. So when
he says that climbing Mt. Hood is not brain surgery, he really knows
what he’s talking about.
Story by BRAD A. WARD,
MD Photography by Pete Keane
Traversing my way along the summit ridge of Mount Hood, I took in
my surroundings. In the distance to the west I could make out the
morning lights of Portland, where I imagined people yawning sleepily
drinking their coffee as I toiled on my way. To the north of me,
and drawing much more of my attention, was a several thousand-foot
plunge to the glacier below.
To the south was a several hundred-foot tumble to a snow field,
only slightly more palatable. Plodding along the ridge in crampons
for a few minutes longer, I found I could climb no higher, as I
was at 11,249 feet and the tippy top of Mount Hood. Mount Hood is
the iconic symbol of Oregon, its highest peak and arguably the most
sublime mountain in the state. Abutting the Columbia River to the
north and standing guard over Portland to the west, climbing to
the summit is an obvious objective for even the most novice mountaineer.
This magnificent peak is climbed hundreds of times each year by
men, women, and even small children. Reportedly it has been summited
by a woman in high heels and a seven-year-old boy, as well as several
dogs. However, it is a serious undertaking, and over the years there
have been multiple fatalities, injuries, and epic rescues.
The mountain has inherent dangers, and some of the common reasons
people are injured on Hood are inclement weather, the climb exceeding
one’s ability, not being familiar with the routes, rock falls, and
avalanches. In the last two years I have been to the top of Mount
Hood twice, each time led by Timberline Mountain Guides owner and
guide extraordinaire Pete Keane. The most recent trip was in June
with my 16-year-old son Jackson. There are multiple routes up the
mountain from all directions, but the standard route is up the south
side from Timberline Lodge. Approaching from the south has the advantage
of easy access, a gentler elevation gain, less chance of rock and
ice fall, and potential assistance from other climbers commonly
on the route.
It can be extremely crowded up this route, particularly in the prime
climbing season of May to July. To prepare, one should be in reasonably
good physical condition and have basic mountaineering skills such
as walking in crampons, using an ice axe for self-arrest and traveling
up steep snow fields. I have been fortunate enough to climb with
Pete, who has been to the summit of Hood over 300 times and has
infinite knowledge of the mountain and climbing techniques. Certainly
many novice mountaineers make it to the top of Hood without problems
each year. Starting at Timberline Lodge, the route goes up the ski
slopes to the top of the Palmer chairlift.
Alternatively, you can catch a ride on a sno-cat that can drop you
off at this point, stash your skis/board, and get an easy run in
at the end of your climb, saving a lot of time. An early (2am) start
gives you the most stable snow conditions, and more daylight to
work with in case a problem occurs. For the next couple of hours
the route goes up a gentle snow slope with some rock to traverse,
usually done with crampons.
As you approach a large rock formation called Crater Rock the slope
gets slightly steeper. Also at this point the air reeks of rotting
eggs due to the fumaroles of Devils’ Kitchen to the east, at the
base of a large ridge called the Steel Cliff. After this slightly
steeper climb, you reach what is called the “Hogsback,” which looks
just like the name describes, a bowed, sharp ridge leading straight
up the mountain. Interestingly, the Hogsback’s upper terminus changes
year to year and this can drastically alter the route you take.
In 2007, it led straight up to what is called the “Pearly Gates,”
several rock towers covered in rime ice and snow with steep chutes
toward the summit ridge.
Going up through the Pearly Gates is the classic route, but you
must first go around the bergshrund, which is a very large crevasse
at the top of the glacier. After this, it is a steep climb through
the Pearly Gates, with different snow and ice conditions determining
the risks. Some will climb this unroped, but a fall from here could
lead to a long tumble down the mountain. I certainly was on a rope
with Pete doing this section, and was very glad of it. An alternative
route is to west of the Pearly Gates, called “The Old Chute,” which
has a steep snow field to climb, longer but similar to the Pearly
Gates route. This is the route I climbed this year with Jackson.
Either route leads you to a summit ridge that is narrow with significant
exposure to a sheer drop to the north. After a short distance walking
on this ridge, you will have arrived at the roof of Oregon, the
summit of Mount Hood. Going down is basically down climbing what
you went up, but is technically harder and uses different muscles,
not to mention the fact that at some point fatigue to some degree
will set in. As the famous mountaineer Ed Viesturs says, “Going
to the summit is optional, but coming down is not.” If you stashed
your skis/board at the top of the Palmer Lift, a gentle run down
the slopes will lead you back to Timberline Lodge. Climbing Mount
Hood is a challenging endeavor, but with some physical training,
knowledge of basic mountaineering techniques, good weather conditions,
and determination you can get to the top. Don’t let a woman in high
heels or a 7-year-old boy outshine you!

Learn to Stand-Up Paddle Surf
Editor’s Note: In real life, this
story’s author is a neurosurgeon at The Center in Bend. So when
he says that learning to stand-up paddle surf is not brain surgery,
he really knows what he’s talking about.
Story by DR. Brad Ward
Photography by Lisa Armstrong
If you have driven by the Deschutes River near the Old Mill District
lately, you may have noticed people on the river appearing to be
walking on water. A closer look reveals the latest craze on the
river: stand-up paddle surfing (SUP). SUP has its origins in Hawaii,
the birthplace of surfing. Some surf instructors liked to stand
up on the boards while giving a lesson and the paddle gave them
stability and let them maneuver. Another origin was the Waikiki
beach boys (including the man who brought surfing to California,
Duke Kahanamoku) who would take pictures of tourists surfing while
riding their longboards with outrigger paddles.
SUP is referred to in the Hawaiian Islands as Ku Hoe He’e Nalu,
which translated literally means “to stand-to paddle-to surf-wave.”
A few years ago, big-wave surfing god Laird Hamilton was photographed
paddle surfing, and since then the sport has exploded. Local surfing
god and Honolulu native Gerry Lopez has recently been spotted on
the Deschutes gracefully stroking his way down the river. I tried
SUP in Maui this past spring break with my 16-year-old son, Jackson.
We chose a late morning session off the coast of Wailea. The SUP
boards are much longer and thicker than a traditional surfboard,
but do have fins. They can be somewhat cumbersome to lug around.
The oar is much longer than a regular canoe paddle, with a smaller
blade. The day we chose to try it, the water was choppy, and any
sudden change of balance left me in the drink. Fortunately the warm
Hawaiian waters were pleasant enough, and I would make my way back
on the board. Stand-up paddle surfing requires little if any instruction.
Just like regular surfing, finding the center of the board, and
staying there, is key. But unlike surfing, where one foot is in
front of the other, in SUP the feet are parallel to the board, about
shoulder-width apart.
The easiest way to start is to lie on the board, gently rise to
your knees, maintaining your balance, and then come to your feet
on the center of the board. The paddling motion not only propels
you, it also assists in balance. If you become unbalanced and want
to avoid getting wet, you just reverse the process and crouch to
your knees or stomach until you are steadier. In calm waters it
is very easy to keep your balance for extended periods of time.
One beautiful Sunday morning my 14 year-old daughter Alexis and
I took a paddle from the Bill Healy Bridge to the Alder Creek dock.
The water was frigid but we managed to get on the boards just off
the shore with cold feet but dry clothes. It was the warmest day
of the year so far and a spectacular morning. Alexis has done SUP
in Maui and didn’t require any coaching from her father. The current
pushed us at a perfect pace down the river with gentle strokes.
We watched the joggers, walkers, and bikers make their way along
both shores. Many curious onlookers from the shores and bridges
stopped to watch us, confirming how novel SUP still is. Neither
Alexis nor I ever came close to falling in, although after a while
our legs got a little wobbly as there are constant micro-adjustments
with them to keep your balance.
Stand-up paddle boarding is a great activity that requires good
balance but not much athleticism. Boards can be rented at Alder
Creek Kayak and Canoe in Bend at The Old Mill. When someone asks
what you did over the weekend, you’ll be able to say, “Ku Hoe He’e
Nalu.” Aloha!
Rapid Improvement
Local
Group Strives to Improve Waterways and Safety
Story by Mark Schang, Bend Paddle Trail Alliance
Photo by Jason Offutt
The mood at Alder Creek Canoe and Kayak was relaxed as a group of
paddling enthusiasts enjoyed the warmth of a summer afternoon next
to the Deschutes River, taking time out to share their favorite hobby
with friends over barbecue and music. But without warning, the mellow
atmosphere was shattered as shouts of “Spillway!” brought everyone’s
attention to the Colorado Avenue Bridge.
Geoff Frank, owner of Alder Creek Canoe and Kayak, sprinted to the
scene, as others followed closely behind. Frank’s place of business
is right next to the spillway, which claimed the life of a woman in
2006 and has had several other near-drownings as floaters and paddlers
have stayed in the river rather than navigate to the take-out on the
nearby bank. Frank and the crowd came upon a man hanging from the
steel spillway with his legs in the river just yards from a downstream
pile of steel, concrete, rocks and rebar. The rescuers reached over
the bridge, grabbing his arm in an adrenaline-fueled attempt to lift
him to safety. Unfortunately, the powerful river dragged the man further
down until he slipped through the rescuers’ grasp and fell into the
river.
The crowd darted to the other side of the bridge where, after a few
anxious moments, the rapids flushed the man through. He collided with
rocks and concrete along the way, but luckily wasn’t pinned down in
the structure, where he might’ve drowned. He surfaced dazed, confused
and terrified, but grateful to be alive. A person on the shore threw
a rope and pulled him onto the shore safely.
This scene has been repeated year after year since the opening of
Bend’s Farewell Park in 2004. The park has allowed more convenient
river access for locals and tourists, and hundreds of people can be
seen on this popular stretch of the Deschutes in summer months floating
on everything from inflatable mattresses to paddleboards. Because
of this increased use, the spillway at Colorado Bridge has become
one of the biggest hazards on the Deschutes River.
The Bend Paddle Trail Alliance, a non-profit, all-volunteer organization,
has been working to address the problem of the hazardous spillway,
and safety on all local waterways in general. Founded in 2005, the
BPTA is partnering with various organizations to create the Deschutes
Paddle Trail in Central Oregon. The trail will encompass the Deschutes
River within Deschutes County, several stretches of the Little Deschutes
and nine of the High Cascade Lakes.
In spring of 2008, with help from grants, sponsors and donations,
the BPTA released the first comprehensive guides for paddlers of the
rivers and lakes of Deschutes County. The guides were a much-needed
resource for recreational paddlers. They proved to be so informative
that the Deschutes County Sheriff’s Office purchased one for each
officer in the Search and Rescue unit. The sheriff’s office even converted
the guides’ GPS data for rapids, hazards and access points to their
computer system to allow their Search and Rescue unit the most updated
and accurate information.
The next step for the BPTA is to design and place signs at all access
points, including BLM and State Park land, as well as within Bend’s
urban growth boundary. Signs are scheduled to be posted this spring
and summer to allow for less confusion and better safety while recreating
on the High Lakes and Deschutes River. While educating the public
is a key role of the BPTA, eliminating the problem of the Colorado
Bridge spillway remains a major mission for the group. Signs will
help increase awareness, but they may not be the long-term fix for
the spillway.
After the 2006 drowning, large warning signs were placed on and before
the bridge, cautioning people to get out of the river and get back
in on the other side to avoid the obstacle. Despite the warning signs,
people still continue to miss the portage and float through the structure.
The Bend Paddle Trail Alliance’s ultimate goal is to remove the spillway.
The group has been working with local residents, property owners,
and other organizations on a long-term solution to the problem at
the Colorado Bridge. One recent sign of progress has been the Bend
Parks and Recreational Department’s feasibility study by Gary Lacey
of Recreational, Planning and Engineering.
The study consists of a proposal to remove the spillway and create
a safe flowing channel that inner tubers and recreational paddlers
can safely navigate. It also includes a separate channel consisting
of waves where whitewater kayakers can surf. These features have been
created in other towns across the country, spurring economic growth
for their local businesses. It is estimated that the features in Reno
have brought in about 10 million dollars to their local economy! The
Deschutes River has become an important part of why Bend is such a
great place to live and visit. The BPTA hopes to make the The Deschutes
Paddle Trail an enjoyable experience for all river users, from the
whitewater enthusiast to the family floating on an inflatable mattress
on a hot July day. Information: www.bendpaddletrailalliance.org,
www.wwparks.com, www.deschutespaddletrail.info
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