It's Not Brain Surgery:
Climbing Mt. Hood

Editor’s Note: In real life, this story’s author is a neurosurgeon at The Center in Bend. So when he says that climbing Mt. Hood is not brain surgery, he really knows what he’s talking about.

Story by BRAD A. WARD, MD Photography by Pete Keane
Traversing my way along the summit ridge of Mount Hood, I took in my surroundings. In the distance to the west I could make out the morning lights of Portland, where I imagined people yawning sleepily drinking their coffee as I toiled on my way. To the north of me, and drawing much more of my attention, was a several thousand-foot plunge to the glacier below.

To the south was a several hundred-foot tumble to a snow field, only slightly more palatable. Plodding along the ridge in crampons for a few minutes longer, I found I could climb no higher, as I was at 11,249 feet and the tippy top of Mount Hood. Mount Hood is the iconic symbol of Oregon, its highest peak and arguably the most sublime mountain in the state. Abutting the Columbia River to the north and standing guard over Portland to the west, climbing to the summit is an obvious objective for even the most novice mountaineer. This magnificent peak is climbed hundreds of times each year by men, women, and even small children. Reportedly it has been summited by a woman in high heels and a seven-year-old boy, as well as several dogs. However, it is a serious undertaking, and over the years there have been multiple fatalities, injuries, and epic rescues.

The mountain has inherent dangers, and some of the common reasons people are injured on Hood are inclement weather, the climb exceeding one’s ability, not being familiar with the routes, rock falls, and avalanches. In the last two years I have been to the top of Mount Hood twice, each time led by Timberline Mountain Guides owner and guide extraordinaire Pete Keane. The most recent trip was in June with my 16-year-old son Jackson. There are multiple routes up the mountain from all directions, but the standard route is up the south side from Timberline Lodge. Approaching from the south has the advantage of easy access, a gentler elevation gain, less chance of rock and ice fall, and potential assistance from other climbers commonly on the route.

It can be extremely crowded up this route, particularly in the prime climbing season of May to July. To prepare, one should be in reasonably good physical condition and have basic mountaineering skills such as walking in crampons, using an ice axe for self-arrest and traveling up steep snow fields. I have been fortunate enough to climb with Pete, who has been to the summit of Hood over 300 times and has infinite knowledge of the mountain and climbing techniques. Certainly many novice mountaineers make it to the top of Hood without problems each year. Starting at Timberline Lodge, the route goes up the ski slopes to the top of the Palmer chairlift.

Alternatively, you can catch a ride on a sno-cat that can drop you off at this point, stash your skis/board, and get an easy run in at the end of your climb, saving a lot of time. An early (2am) start gives you the most stable snow conditions, and more daylight to work with in case a problem occurs. For the next couple of hours the route goes up a gentle snow slope with some rock to traverse, usually done with crampons.

As you approach a large rock formation called Crater Rock the slope gets slightly steeper. Also at this point the air reeks of rotting eggs due to the fumaroles of Devils’ Kitchen to the east, at the base of a large ridge called the Steel Cliff. After this slightly steeper climb, you reach what is called the “Hogsback,” which looks just like the name describes, a bowed, sharp ridge leading straight up the mountain. Interestingly, the Hogsback’s upper terminus changes year to year and this can drastically alter the route you take. In 2007, it led straight up to what is called the “Pearly Gates,” several rock towers covered in rime ice and snow with steep chutes toward the summit ridge.

Going up through the Pearly Gates is the classic route, but you must first go around the bergshrund, which is a very large crevasse at the top of the glacier. After this, it is a steep climb through the Pearly Gates, with different snow and ice conditions determining the risks. Some will climb this unroped, but a fall from here could lead to a long tumble down the mountain. I certainly was on a rope with Pete doing this section, and was very glad of it. An alternative route is to west of the Pearly Gates, called “The Old Chute,” which has a steep snow field to climb, longer but similar to the Pearly Gates route. This is the route I climbed this year with Jackson.

Either route leads you to a summit ridge that is narrow with significant exposure to a sheer drop to the north. After a short distance walking on this ridge, you will have arrived at the roof of Oregon, the summit of Mount Hood. Going down is basically down climbing what you went up, but is technically harder and uses different muscles, not to mention the fact that at some point fatigue to some degree will set in. As the famous mountaineer Ed Viesturs says, “Going to the summit is optional, but coming down is not.” If you stashed your skis/board at the top of the Palmer Lift, a gentle run down the slopes will lead you back to Timberline Lodge. Climbing Mount Hood is a challenging endeavor, but with some physical training, knowledge of basic mountaineering techniques, good weather conditions, and determination you can get to the top. Don’t let a woman in high heels or a 7-year-old boy outshine you!


Learn to Stand-Up Paddle Surf
Editor’s Note: In real life, this story’s author is a neurosurgeon at The Center in Bend. So when he says that learning to stand-up paddle surf is not brain surgery, he really knows what he’s talking about.

Story by DR. Brad Ward
Photography by Lisa Armstrong

If you have driven by the Deschutes River near the Old Mill District lately, you may have noticed people on the river appearing to be walking on water. A closer look reveals the latest craze on the river: stand-up paddle surfing (SUP). SUP has its origins in Hawaii, the birthplace of surfing. Some surf instructors liked to stand up on the boards while giving a lesson and the paddle gave them stability and let them maneuver. Another origin was the Waikiki beach boys (including the man who brought surfing to California, Duke Kahanamoku) who would take pictures of tourists surfing while riding their longboards with outrigger paddles.

SUP is referred to in the Hawaiian Islands as Ku Hoe He’e Nalu, which translated literally means “to stand-to paddle-to surf-wave.” A few years ago, big-wave surfing god Laird Hamilton was photographed paddle surfing, and since then the sport has exploded. Local surfing god and Honolulu native Gerry Lopez has recently been spotted on the Deschutes gracefully stroking his way down the river. I tried SUP in Maui this past spring break with my 16-year-old son, Jackson.

We chose a late morning session off the coast of Wailea. The SUP boards are much longer and thicker than a traditional surfboard, but do have fins. They can be somewhat cumbersome to lug around. The oar is much longer than a regular canoe paddle, with a smaller blade. The day we chose to try it, the water was choppy, and any sudden change of balance left me in the drink. Fortunately the warm Hawaiian waters were pleasant enough, and I would make my way back on the board. Stand-up paddle surfing requires little if any instruction. Just like regular surfing, finding the center of the board, and staying there, is key. But unlike surfing, where one foot is in front of the other, in SUP the feet are parallel to the board, about shoulder-width apart.

The easiest way to start is to lie on the board, gently rise to your knees, maintaining your balance, and then come to your feet on the center of the board. The paddling motion not only propels you, it also assists in balance. If you become unbalanced and want to avoid getting wet, you just reverse the process and crouch to your knees or stomach until you are steadier. In calm waters it is very easy to keep your balance for extended periods of time. One beautiful Sunday morning my 14 year-old daughter Alexis and I took a paddle from the Bill Healy Bridge to the Alder Creek dock.

The water was frigid but we managed to get on the boards just off the shore with cold feet but dry clothes. It was the warmest day of the year so far and a spectacular morning. Alexis has done SUP in Maui and didn’t require any coaching from her father. The current pushed us at a perfect pace down the river with gentle strokes. We watched the joggers, walkers, and bikers make their way along both shores. Many curious onlookers from the shores and bridges stopped to watch us, confirming how novel SUP still is. Neither Alexis nor I ever came close to falling in, although after a while our legs got a little wobbly as there are constant micro-adjustments with them to keep your balance.

Stand-up paddle boarding is a great activity that requires good balance but not much athleticism. Boards can be rented at Alder Creek Kayak and Canoe in Bend at The Old Mill. When someone asks what you did over the weekend, you’ll be able to say, “Ku Hoe He’e Nalu.” Aloha!

Rapid Improvement
Local Group Strives to Improve Waterways and Safety